a word on australian candy

I am rather proud to say that I come from a long line of women with a taste for the sweet and savory things in life. I mean this literally, not in any figurative sense. My grandmother, for example, would infamously go out to dinner in order to have two desserts. She'd simply opt out of the main course and go straight for the good stuff.

Needless to say, this is the sort of behavior that I both admire and emulate.

... and which is probably the reason why I love Australian junk food so much. I mean, not just love, but really, really love. I hate to say it, but candy and snacks in Oz taste so much better. I'll always have a soft spot for my American staples -- Twizzlers, KitKats, Nerds, and Skittles -- but man, I've got to hand it to the Australians. They have edible treats figured out.

My first experience with Aussie junk food came during a trip to the local Woolworth's. In America, Woolworth's was once a junky dime store, but in Australia, it's a run down grocery store chain. Nothing special, except it's where I first discovered the joy of Curly Wurlys.

And oh, dear god. Curly Wurlys. There is nothing better on this Earth.

I bought one at the recommendation of a friend, ate it in about two bites, and then went apeshit and bought a handful more -- which promptly went down my gullet and in to my Curly Wurly bloated stomach. This is the sort of snack that, if discovered by the American masses, would send our obesity rates soaring over the edge. I'm not even kidding. They're that delicious and maddeningly fattening.

A Curly Wurly is simple a braid of caramel covered in chocolate. It sounds so uninspired, yet somehow manages to be ridiculously delicious. I assure you that no trip to Australia is complete without indulging in at least a bagful of these goodies. They're also inexpensive (around 60 cents), and a great way to feed yourself on the road when you're on a tight budget. Maybe not the healthiest choice, but they do give a mild energy boost.

My next major junk food discovery was the rather dismal sounding Burger Rings. I was a little apprehensive before trying a bag, but once I popped one tangy round burgery bite in to my mouth, I couldn't stop. It was a repeat of the Curly Wurly situation. Burger Rings are delicious, folks. You eat one, you'll soon have noshed your way through an entire bag.

You've been forewarned.

The closest American relative to the Burger Ring I can think of is the kind-of-disgusting tasting Funyuns, otherwise lovingly known as 'those faux onion rings'. There's really no comparison, other than the fact both are named after fatty types of food and boggle the mind as a concept. I mean, BURGER RINGS? Seriously? (But yes. Seriously. They are good.)

Then it was on to the ever popular and perennial Aussie favorite, Toobs. This well named snack are tubes of cheesey goodness. Kind of like Cheetos, only better. You can stack them on your finger, pretend they're rings, and then eat them off. It's childlishly amusing to flash your 'bling' around on your hand and then turn around and nibble them off.

The best way to enjoy these treats are while sitting in front of the television. I discovered this fact with a female friend I made in Australia. One evening we decided to have a junk food binge night. It was an excuse for the American (me) to eat "cultural food" and a reason for the Australian (my friend) to eat the fattiest, greasiest junk to be found in Australia.

We made an evening out of our noshing fest. We lined up some back episodes of America's Next Top Model, settled on to her comfy couch in front of the television, and sat back and ate all evening. We didn't even have dinner -- we just ate pure crap. It was wonderful. By the end of the evening we were surrounded by a sea of wrappers and empty bags that smelled faintly fart-like. (Burger Rings do not make an appetizing smell, despite their delicious taste.)

Of course, I didn't stop at just Toobs, Burger Rings, or Curly Wurlys. Other shout-outs I'd like to give to delicious Aussie candy:

Cherry Ripes (cherry + chocolate), Flakes, Picnic Bars (mmmm!), and my favorite, the Cadbury Turkish Delight. Also, the one treat I didn't try but that had the best name of anything I've ever seen: Golden Gaytime Ice Cream.

Just remember, it's not good unless it's golden AND gaytime. Or a Curly Wurly.

photos: spring bluff and road back to ipswich

Spring Bluff

the lush green setting of Spring Bluff

old machinery at Spring Bluff

Murphy's Creek (blink and you'll miss it)

rainbow over highway

on the road back to Ipswich

photos: toowomba

flowers at Picnic Point

Great Dividing Range

Table Mountain

downtown Toowomba

spring bluff

18 kilometers in to the middle of nowhere, there lies a beautiful sight. Before reaching this lovely place, however, you must travel through dusty bush and the impossibly tiny town of Murphy's Creek -- which is notable for its one and only feature, a small railway station. (And by small, I mean a boxy rectangle of a building and a platform. That's it.)

There isn't a lot of hoopla surrounding this lush, hidden spot. One or two signs advertise a tourist attraction '18 km' off the main roadway. Nothing, however, gives a hint as to what it may be or even what to expect. The signs simply state, 'Spring Bluff, 18 km.'

The 18 km off the main road is, by the way, a long one. You travel through sparsely populated countryside, past a couple of languishing cows, and along eucalyptus and gum tree lined roads. It's very pretty in and of itself, in that empty Queensland way. It might even remind you of what the American wild west may have looked like, before gold mining and Billy the Kid took over.

After a seemingly long and unending drive, you reach one little sign for a turn off up a gravel road that simply says 'Spring Bluff.' The driveway doesn't look very promising, especially since the remote location feels all the more pronounced once you leave asphalt.

However, I can assure you that this drive up the gravel, through the bush and alongside cow pastures is very worth it. Why? Because Spring Bluff is like a hallucination, a dream. It is a lush green spot in the middle of dry bush. In other words, it is a veritable oasis.

Spring Bluff, a 130 year old railway station, rests on the main line that runs between Ipswich (outside of Brisbane) and Toowomba (yes, that Toowomba.) In 1914, Queensland Rail began a gardening competition that encouraged railway workers to make their stations pretty. Although Spring Bluff feel in to desrepair in the 1960's, it has since returned to its preferred, lovely state. The result? A beautified and flower happy spot in the middle of the bush.

There are flowers galore and a bamboo grove. There are prettily arranged boulders and a cascading waterfall. The grass is greener than almost anywhere else in summertime Queensland. The station platform itself is draped in baskets of hanging blooms. Everywhere you look, there is life, color and floral arrangements galore. If you're allergic to pollen, this is not the place to be. If, on the other hand, you are a plant buff, you've come to the right spot.

Train buffs may enjoy walking through the old station building and platform. Old equipment lies out in the open, allowing visitors to touch and actually feel history. A train car from a previous era is crouched down in to the earth next door, where you can run your hands along the wooden sides and peer in the dusky windows.

A visitor's log is of special interest. It seems that this remote little spot attracts quite a few visitors. Australians were especially well represented on the list. Americans? Not so much. I felt very cheerful when I was able to sign my name and country on the visitor's log.

I would highly recommend a stop off at the lovely Spring Bluff. The drive alone is worth it, as it goes through some interesting rural areas. It's a snapshot of Australian life that is worth seeing. The gardens of Spring Bluff are also worth a stroll.

toowomba

Toowomba is one of those deliciously named Queensland towns that I couldn't help but get giddy over the prospect of visiting. While my home state in America has practical, staid city names like 'York' and 'Factoryville', Queensland seems to have a plethora of towns with names like Woodenbong and ... well, Toowomba. The sheer amount of vowels in these town names was reason enough to pay my respects through a visit.

I was mildly, and cheerfully, taken with Toowomba. I rather aptly described the town in my journal as "nothing spectacular but quaint." Which is true. Toowomba itself isn't stunning, but it has a charming look to it that you don't get in many other Queensland towns.

To begin with, Toowomba is located in the mountains. The drive in to town is a bit of an ordeal, as the main road is set at a ten percent incline up the side of a mountain. Signs are everywhere, promising danger and doling out warnings to overly optimistic drivers. The first time I came in to town, which was in a vehicle that was having mechanical problems, I ended up stranded in an over heated car for forty five minutes. Not fun.

Once in town, however, the going gets a lot easier. Toowomba is the epitome of pleasant. It has pleasant homes with lush gardens, pleasant and cool mountain air, pleasant people with cheerful smiles, and a very pleasant downtown full of some "old school" buildings that are, well, pleasant.

The gardens of Toowomba are one of the town's major draws. It seems that for many parts of Queensland, landscaping isn't taken that seriously. In Toowomba, however, it has become a form of high art. Even a brisk drive through town will reveal a plethora of beautiful yards full of blooming bushes and colorful flower beds. Even the air is a little sweeter and cleaner here than in many parts of coastal Queensland.

A focal point in Toowomba is the well named Picnic Point. A medium sized park with walking trails, a cafe, picnic grounds, gardens, and incredible old gum trees, Picnic Point is the perfect spot to catch some spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. In fact, the park provides an incredible look at the Great Dividing Range and Tabletop Mountain.

I was utterly charmed by Picnic Point. I wandered the trails, which looped joyously through groves of eucalyptus, and spied on some lovely bird life. I measured myself against one old gum tree, and stepped away realizing just how short I truly am. I even had a picnic here, and happily ate cream puffs and a sandwich under the blazing heat of the Queensland sun.

Although I didn't walk around downtown Toowomba, I did get a short drive through of the area. There were some old buildings that had an antiquated charm, and it seemed like the area was a bustling one. Nothing really drew my attention as being a must-see, but it was still fun to poke my head out the car window and snap some photos.

Toowomba is also beloved by many Brisbane/Gold Coast locals. I heard the name repeatedly through out my trip, and many times it was spoken about with a sort of reverence one gives to a doddering old grandmother. Not exactly a jumpin' party spot, but certainly a lovely place for an afternoon picnic.

driving in queensland

Distance takes on an all together new meaning when driving around the roads of Queensland. Maps are deceiving; two points could look like they're next to each other, but an actual drive will prove them to be anything but close together. What seems like it should be a five minute trip turns in to a rather epic journey that spans three-quarters of an hour.

This seems to be the case no matter what. In this respect, Queensland is for all the world like California, a state which should be nicknamed something like 'Land of The Sprawl.' According to the fine citizens of California (and Queensland, for that matter), things should be built far apart rather than close together. In other words, make everyone drive stupidly long distances, for the hell of it! Why put a shopping center down the road when you can make it really down the road?

In the defense of Australia's sunny state, part of the reason everything is so spread out is that the bush is very much part of the landscape. 'Bush', in Australian slang, refers to anything that hasn't been tamed by the hands of humankind. Any wild, woolly, overgrown, or sparsely populated area is referred to as the bush. And make no mistake about it -- the bush is ever present in Queensland. People don't seem to encroach on the bush so much as the bush creeps up on people. It's kind of the paradoxical inverse of most places.

A fine example of this is the lovely city of Brisbane. A bustling metropolis with a population of over a million people, a skyline studded with sky scrapers and a rowdy and fun reputation, Brisbane seems completely urban. There's a wonderful transit system, sprawling suburbs, and enough gawking tourists to clog up pedestrian traffic during the summer months.

However, take about a ten minute drive out of the city in certain directions, and you'll see plenty of eucalyptus forests and kangaroo crossing signs ... but not too many houses. Park rangers at the Brisbane National Forest, which is on the outskirts of the city limits, actually warn visitors to drive carefully on the road ahead, and not to proceed without sufficient fuel. Why? Oh, because it's so remote, there's no petrol stations for over an hour and a half. And this is within a national park that is on the edge of a major city!

The day Joe and I went driving in the Brisbane National Forest, we were mildly amused to learn that there were exactly two spots on the road where we could grab some lunch. Naturally, one of these places was closed, which left one quaint place as our only choice. This little cafe was located in a tiny (albeit adorable) town of about one hundred people.

Amazing, the bush. Simply amazing. And everywhere.

Another reason everything is so spread out is that Australia is so damn big. I mean, yeah, we all known from geography lessons that it's the world's sixth largest nation, yadda yadda. However, I don't think a tourist can appreciate this fact until they're actually in the country. Then it starts to dawn on you. Oh wait, this place is huge and rather sparsely populated. A sign in western Queensland made this point clear to me when I read that the next town wasn't for 200 kilometers.

So, we have the bush and the sheer size of the place. That's two factors in explaining why every stop at the grocery store seems to morph into an epic road trip. But then there's a third reason why everything takes forever to get to.

Queensland has a system where there's a main town for a given area, and then lots of little towns associated with it. These little towns may be thirty kilometers away, but no matter. They are somehow linked to the one major town in a given area. Of course, lots of these little towns lack what the main town has, namely access to the railway system, a decent grocery store, and commercial center. So, if you want to buy 'nice' groceries or catch a ride on the train, you're going to have to truck in a fairly long distance to get to the one major town in the region that has these exciting features.

Luckily, driving in Queensland is generally a scenic experience. There are some stunning landscapes. A lot of the region's beautiful scenery is relatively untouched by people, as well, making it an even lovelier experience. You can drive for kilometers and not see a single house in many places. (Cows, maybe, or pasture land, but not houses.) It's a refreshing -- and freeing -- feeling.

journal entry: the great wheel of brisbane

September 14, 2008

... A giant ferris wheel, The Great Wheel of Brisbane (like 'The Eye' in London, England) dominates the South Bank skyline. In fact, you can see it from the waterfront sections of Brisbane's downtown area. It's that huge and imposing.

Joe [editorial note: my friend] and I went for a ride. The ticket lady in charge of collecting the admission fee asked if I was American or Canadian. Apparently they keep a tally of where tourists are from -- for book keeping purposes, perhaps? I always find that a bit odd, but the woman was genuinely friendly about it. She said she couldn't tell the difference between Canadian and American accents, but knew I had to be one of the two. I politely informed her I was 'merican, through and through.

I was so nervous getting into the Great Wheel car. The Wheel itself is over 200 feet high! You enter in to a climate controlled 'car' that swings whenever you move. There's an emergency call button to press if you panic, which I appreciated. (I do hate heights, after all.) I joked that I might need to use it.

A big boned Maori girl got me and Joe in to the car, and she seemed amused by nervousness. Joe sat across from me, and everytime he turned to take a picture, the car would swing slightly. I was jumpy about that aspect of the ride, but the views were glorious and well worth the moments of swaying terror.

It was almost sunset when we went up for our ride. It was rather romantic really, riding up in the sky as the sun was lowering in the horizon. I couldn't help but think it would be a wonderful spot to be proposed to, or something of the sort, with all of Brisbane at your feet and the sun casting a golden sheen on everything, river and glass high rises alike.

The ride stopped once while we were near the top. That made me very nervous. I remember saying to my friend, "Okay, we can move any day now." I was more than a bit anxious floating up above the known world, but I was also exhilerated by it. Like I said, the views of Brisbane were incomparable.

The entire ride was about ten minutes, or three full rotations. The admission price was steep, but entirely worth it.

The Great Wheel of Brisbane was definately a high light of my visit to the South Bank, and I would recommend it to any tourist visiting the area. It won't be here forever, as it is a temporary monument, and it ofers unparalleled views of the Brisbane metro area.

photos: brisbane

me, at the Streets Beach, South Bank

the beautiful arbor walk

skyline of downtown Brisbane, view from the boardwalk, South Bank

downtown Brisbane

the great Wheel of Brisbane, South Bank

brisbane's south bank

Brisbane, oh Brisbane. What a beautiful city you are! Out of all the hundreds of towns and cities I have seen, you are by far one of my favorites.

I can't begin to list all the reasons that make you so wonderful. I do know your location, along the banks of a grand river, certainly help. So does your architecture, which is full of sleek and modern high rises. There are the cultural gems that dot your expanse, such as the Queensland Museum and the numerous art galleries that line your streets. Your shopping is wonderful. There are enough malls and boutiques in Brisbane to keep a Paris Hilton style socialite content for months. Even some of your more famous suburbs are equally gorgeous, with million dollar homes rising up on lush green hilltops that overlook the grand view below.

I had quite a love affair with you while I was visiting Australia. And no wonder -- you're the country's fastest growing city. It seems everyone has the same opinion of you as I do!

***

My introduction to Brisbane began my second night in Australia. I happened to stay one night in an incredible luxury hotel, The Emporium. Located in a once seedy neighborhood (Fortitude Valley), the area has now gentrified in to an area of Maserati dealers and upscale shopping. A wonderfully decorated and sporty spot, The Emporium was a great way to get introduced to the decidedly casual-but-wealthy Brisbane lifestyle.

The hotel alone was an awesome experience, but my god! Brisbane herself!

My formal introduction to Brisbane began on the South Bank, the city's beating heart of culture. This is the area in which the performing arts center, State Library of Queensland, Queensland Museum of Modern Art, Queensland Art Gallery, Queensland Museum and the famous landmark the Brisbane Wheel are all located. Other must-see sites include the South Bank Parklands and Streets Beach.

The Queensland Museum is home to a wonderful (and touchable!) assortment of exhibits, all focusing in on Queensland history and her native fauna. Kids will especially get a kick out of the place, which was evidenced by the fact that hordes of well mannered children were swarming several of the more hands-on exhibits. Wonderful old dinosaur bones, an Aboriginal exhibit, and the chance to crawl around inside a native Queensland tree are all to be found here. The free admission charge makes it quite a deal, and the museum is funded by the State of Queensland. I had a blast here, taking photos, fondling the exhibits, and taking photos of myself fondling the exhibits. I also learned quite a bit.

The Queensland Art Gallery is virtually next door to the Queensland Museum, and also boasts a free admission fee. There are some truly lovely works here, and heavily showcases Australian artists. I especially enjoyed the Aboriginal Art section. The Aboriginal pieces were intricately made with thousands of dots painted on to canvasses of all sizes, in designs that held symbolic and religious meaning. There are some lovely sculptures as well, and an interesting pool that is often part of an ever-changing art installment.

The Whale Mall is a little walk-way that showcases life-sized models of whales hanging from the ceiling. Recordings of whale calls play in the background. Benches are arranged for those who want to sit, listen and watch the startled faces of people walking past. Of course, I loved it.

While I did not actually enter the State Library of Queensland, I found it was a nice spot to grab some lunch. Although pricey (like everything is on the South Bank), it's a nice place to sit, relax and enjoy surprisingly tasty sandwiches. There's a decidedly intellectual and upscale feel to the folks who patronize the restaurant there, which I liked.

The South Bank Parklands are a lovely spot. A big, glorified park in the middle of a bustling city, the South Bank Parklands is a wonderful spot for to grab dinner, have a leisurely stroll, or get one of the best views of Brisbane on the massive Wheel of Brisbane. Perhaps most striking is the South Bank Arbor, which extends for much of the park lands. A steel support curved in a soothing design is draped with beautiful purple bougainvillea. It's absolutely stunning, especially when one stops, smells the flowers, and takes a moment to absorb the scene. It is truly lovely.

My favorite part of the park lands was the amazing Streets Beach. It is a mix of a pool and a lagoon, artfully surrounded by palm trees, a gazebo, rocks and beautiful plantings of trees and flowers. You can actually swim in the lagoon, and it feels exactly like swimming at the beach, minus the pesky waves and sharks.

According to wikipedia.org, the Streets beach " comprises a lagoon with enough water to fill five Olympic swimming pools, with sand beaches, palm trees, rocky creeks and subtropical trees and exotic plantings. The beach is patrolled seven days a week by lifeguards."

Another spot I loved was the Nepal Peace Pagoda, a gift from the Nepalese government. It's an intricately carved wooden pagoda that visitors are welcome to sit and meditate in. It has an aura of peace and love to it, and reminded me of Nepal and my visits in the East. Naturally, I loved it.

There is a lovely Boardwalk as well, which runs along the river. It's a nice place to stroll, and frequented by a wide assortment of Brisbanites and tourists alike. There are spots on the boardwalk that have great views of downtown Brisbane across the river. It's close to the city but still removed from all the heavy action.

The Great Wheel of Brisbane is exactly as the name states -- a giant wheel that takes riders in little enclosed capsules to great heights and lets them take in one of the best views the city has to offer. You get a 360 degree view, and it is very high at the top.

Although I'm afraid of heights, I was determined to take a ride on the great wheel. It's only there for a few years, and I didn't want to miss a chance while I had one. A very nice Maori woman got me situated in my capsule, assuring me it wasn't scary and that hey, it was even climate controlled. She then showed me how to work the air conditioning, which was a nice touch. And then, bam! I was off, up, up, up in to the clouds. The capsule would shake precariously anytime I moved, so I tried to keep as still as possible, rotating my head around with a stiff neck and taut torso. However, my fear soon dissipated, and I was filled with the heady rush of seeing an incredible sight: Brisbane, at sunset, in all her glittering glory.

lone pine koala sanctuary

Koalas and emus and kangaroos, oh my.

That, my friends, should be the motto of the delightful Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. Located just outside of Brisbane, the sanctuary is the world's largest and perhaps Australia's best known. Home to a diverse collection of famous Aussie critters, Lone Pine is one of the easiest ways to see koalas, kangaroos and emus without trekking through the bush. (I did have a bush experience later in my trip, and managed to see all of those creatures -- and more -- in the wild. Nothing compares with that, but the sanctuary is the next best thing.)

My Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary adventure began while floating along the Brisbane River. The Mirimar Cruise offers a 1.5 hour journey (each way) down the river, finally docking at Lone Pine, which happens to rest along the side of the Brisbane River. It is a wonderful way to reach the sanctuary, and a beautifully scenic one, at that.

The journey down to the sanctuary was filled with commentary on the history and sights of Brisbane. It is also passed by a giant fruit bat colony on an island in the middle of the river. The only way to see the bats, by the way, is via the cruise.

The weather was perfect, sunny and warm, and sitting out on the deck of the cruise was utterly fulfilling. I was especially taken with the fruit bat colony and looking at all the expensive real estate lining the Brisbane River. You would not believe some of the incredible houses that dot that waterway's shores!

The sanctuary itself was a joy. Although not large, it does take a couple of hours to see all of the animals and exhibits properly. The animal enclosures were generally large and full of plants and hiding places, which made it more comfortable for the creatures in question. Wild animals also seemed to have taken to the place, with bush turkeys kicking up dirt everywhere on the paths, and lizards galore darting in and out of the few buildings on the sanctuary grounds.

Lone Pine is definitely the place to see koalas. My visit coincided with the arrival of baby koalas, so I had the pleasure of seeing the little joeys with their mothers. The babies ride their mothers piggyback style, which is disarmingly cute.

The males (or 'bachelors', as the sanctuary calls them) make a god awful noise. It's completely unexpected and a little shocking the first time you hear it -- you don't expect something so grating from such an adorable animal! It's a cross between a bellow and a grunt, and very deep pitched. To hear these guys in action, go here. The noise is quite loud, something you don't get from the recording on that link. You can hear it from meters away.

One of the best parts of Lone Pine is the giant kangaroo enclosure. Here is the spot where visitors can come and pet, feed and mingle with small sized 'roos. A few emus poke about the area as well, although they don't seem nearly as friendly. (They are also a lot more intimidating and larger in size.)

You buy kangaroo food at the gift shop for $1 a bag. My friend and I each bought one. Having armed ourselves with the paper sacks full of kangaroo friendly pellets, we made our way in to the enclosure.

It was well worth the $1 price for the food. The kangaroos come up and nibble at your hand, tickling you with their fur. Their mouths are surprisingly gentle, like a horse's, and if you keep your palm flat, you aren't in any danger of getting skin nipped off.

The personalities of the various animals really shine in this enclosure, too. Some will come right up to you and demand food; others will hang back and shyly watch, waiting for you to notice them. A few young kangaroos were hopping about as well, and seemed like children everywhere -- curious, eager, and friendly.

Another highlight of my visit to Lone Pine was getting a photograph taken with a koala. Although it's an extra fee on top of the admission price, I felt it was well worth it to even have the chance to hold such an amazing creature. I held a cuddly old female, who felt like a big furry bag of cat food. (Same weight, same sensation.) Koalas are very lethargic creatures, so you really have to cradle them when you hold them. They also have long claws, which are a little scary and can scratch if you are wearing a shirt with short sleeves.

For any prospective koala-holders: watch out for males. They have a scent gland, and apparently can make people who hold them smell a little funky for a few hours.

Other than the koalas, 'roos and emus, the sanctuary had wallabies, dingos, birds, snakes, lizards, and almost every other distinctly and famously Australian creature imaginable. The wallaby was especially cute -- a strange cross between a pig and a giant hedgehog.

I would highly recommend a visit to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary to any visitor in the Gold Coast/Brisbane area. It is especially great for kids or the young at heart, and is quite educational. There are some great talks scheduled through out the day, and plenty of chances to look at rare animals up close. The fact that the animals live in nice exhibits and appear to be well cared for also adds to the appeal of the sanctuary.

photos: brisbane river festival '08

brisbane river festival '08

The noise, the crowd, the expectations and excitement. Conversations, at a loud volume, swelling and diminishing as people walk past, laughing, cheering, holding hands and slapping sweaty palms. Me, rooted in one spot, trying not to get pushed or stepped on, perched on the edge of a tiny iron railing, a seat made of metal and the fabric of my jeans. I can't fall, I'm safe, there's only concrete and crowds around me, but still I sit, precarious on my metallic throne.

Cameras are flashing all around, little glittering globes of light that pop for a second with blinding brilliance. Bright white orbs, dancing in air, going off in my face, making me blink, shake my head, blink some more. My friend standing next to me is doing the same thing, my camera in his hands. It gives off little pops of white light every two minutes or so. My friend is making lightning white flashes of his own. Recording posterity. Recording the crowds. Recording a specific moment in time.

This, I think, is expectation.

Everywhere I look there are people. Hundreds and thousands and hundreds of thousands of people. Babies, toddlers, children, teenagers, young adults, the middle aged, seniors. Drunk people, sober people, stony faced people, joking people. A thousand different accents, and me caught in the cradle of their voices, listening but not understanding a word.

I'm here, at the heart of this massive event, almost by accident. Luck and chance brought me to this place, and now I'm standing in the middle of Brisbane, Australia, waiting for one of the nation's biggest shows to begin. Brisbane River Fest is an annual event celebrating an amazing city, and the RiverFire is perhaps the greatest extravaganza during the festival, a sweeping show of fireworks and burning jet fuel along a great expanse of the Brisbane River.

It seems the whole world has come to witness the event, and it's a great feeling. All of us, pale faces, Asian faces, dark faces, have come to be a part of this moment. It's communal. It's all of us in it together. It's children and old people coming together.

Expectation and tension mounts as we wait for show time. Finally, when it feels like we can't stand another moment of craning our necks heavenward, it begins. A jet flies low over the crowd, and then zips upward, letting loose a stream of fuel that is then set alight. A streak of fire fills the sky, a stunning sight that makes the crowd gasp.

And then -- the fireworks. Oh, the fireworks! Hundreds of them, shooting up into the sky, beautifully timed to music. They glitter and glisten and gleam, just like pyrotechnics should, and all of Brisbane stands there watching, gasping, oohing. Every two minutes I turn to my friend in awe and ask, "did you see that?!" or "how much money did all of this cost?"

There's a lull in the fireworks, a little trick to make the crowd think the show is over. And then boom! The show begins again in earnest.

It lasts for a long time. The technicolor glitter, the show in the sky, the burning jet fuel and impressive fireworks. I haven't been this enchanted by anything in a long time, and it's a good feeling.

My second night in Australia, and this happens. What a beautiful experience. I want to open my arms wide and say thank you to this wonderful country for arranging this event specially for me. Of course I know it isn't really in my honor, but I can't help but feel like that.

This is the moment when I realize that I love this place. Australia is welcoming me with open arms, and I am doing the same to her. We love each other. It's a love affair that has begun with literal fireworks.

I smile to myself at this thought. I don't tell my friend what I am thinking, but he can see it in my face. "Happy?" he asks.

I nod and then start to laugh from pure happiness.

"Very," I tell him.






(clip from the opening of the River Festival ... fast forward to 3 minutes to see the actual start of the show -- it's high quality footage!)

surfers paradise: photos

surfers paradise

At last, after over twenty hours of travel, I reached sunny Brisbane, Australia.

Getting through customs and baggage claim was surprisingly easy (and quick), and I knew I was in the right place as soon as the smiling customs agent wished me a "G'day" and "welcome to Australia!" I had never had an Official Passport Stamper be so friendly with me. (Usually they treat me like I'm a plague carrying drug mule.)

I found my friend at the airport, and we recognized each other instantly, despite the seven years that had passed without seeing one another.

My first day in Australia really began when we left the airport. We sailed down the highway towards the delightfully touristy Surfers Paradise, which is basically a small version of Miami, Florida. (There is, in fact, a Miami on the Gold Coast of Australia, but that's a different story.)

Surfers Paradise is one of those towns that tourists flock to, despite having nothing to do with the 'real' Australia. It's full of high rises, expensive hotels, Japanese families carrying camcorders, and yes, surfers. It is also located alongside a very nice beach, which is probably the main reason it appeals to so many visitors.

There are a lot of fun things to do in town, especially if you are in your teens and twenties. The legal drinking age in Australia is 18, and there are plenty of bars and 'bottle shops' (liquor stores) in the area. This fact, of course, makes Surfers party central. One word of warning, however: liquor is horrendously expensive in Oz. I'm including imported beer under this category as well. Expect to pay upwards of $40 for a bottle of Bacardi, which is a ridiculous sum of money when compared to what one pays in the States. A bit of a damper on the party spirit, but no one can keep a good Aussie (or American tourist) down.

There are plenty of places to shop, as well. Surfers is a black hole for cash. Most of the stores tend to be overpriced and cater to tourists. There are also some surprisingly upscale places with designer merchandise aimed at the rich folks who stay at the $600 a night hotels that dot the beach.

I did manage to find the mother ship of all souvenir stands. Two stories of junk shopping heaven, the upper story was a shady smoke shop and the bottom was home to piles upon piles of junk. I stocked up on 5-for-$1 postcards, $6 mugs and eyed the tiny Aussie flags, kangaroo toys, plastic boomerangs and towels emblazoned with the naked bosoms of Australian women. I have no idea what the place was called, but it was next to a mall. If you ever go, try to find it. It has the best souvenir deals of anywhere I saw in Aussie.

Surfers Paradise was also the place where I experienced my first taste of the perennial Aussie fast food favorite, Red Rooster. Red Rooster is famous for its chicken, although it also serves a decent fish n' chips selection. Good old R.R. soon became a budget dining go-to of mine, and I came to really love their golden chips (fries), chicken sandwiches and fried fish.

I had expected Surfers Paradise to be tackier than it was, based on the Lonely Planet's Guide rather grim take on the town. However, I actually really liked it, and found the party atmosphere to be quite fun. The beach was beautiful, and the water was warm, clear and impossibly turquoise. There was also a lovely boardwalk alongside the beach.

The public toilets there are hilarious, by the way. You enter in to a concrete enclosed single toilet stall, and are locked in by some sort of automated machine. It scolds you if you don't urinate fast enough, and then you have to fiddle around with the controls forever in order to get the doors to open again.
You then emerge again in to the bright sunshine, blinking and confused, and watch as the next person in line struggles with the tempermental toilet stall.

My only bummer about Surfers was that I didn't get to meet one of the famed Meter Maids. The Meter Maids are scantily dressed young women who walk around and feed parking meters. They are the opposite of the police -- their sole job is to make sure people don't get parking tickets. I hear they wear next to nothing and are famous in Aussie, but alas, I didn't get to have a photo-op one.

In my next post I'll put up some photos of the area, so that you can see exactly what I'm talking about when I refer to it as 'Little Miami.' It has everything you would expect in that city -- tanned, skinny people, beautiful beaches, gorgeous high rises, palm trees -- except, perhaps, a large Cuban population.

That said, Surfers Paradise is all eye candy and a good time. It's a frivolous place and not at all a reflection of the true Aussie spirit. I would recommend a one or two day visit, but not a long term stay. There are beaches that are equally nice on the Gold Coast, far less crowded, and unknown to tourists. Hit up those spots instead, but only if you want a flavor of real Aussie beach-bum life and not a touristy good time.

things to know on a long haul flight

Before my trip to Australia, I spent hours and hours researching every aspect of my trip online. One of my most immediate concerns was how to cope with such a long flight, and I found almost nothing helpful on the internet about the issue. Every website on long distance flights offered the same advice -- drink water and get plenty of sleep -- all of which is obvious and I already knew.

Like many people, I hate flying. I mean really, intensely, deeply loathe it. I'm afraid of heights, I don't like the thought of hurtling through space at high speeds, and I've seen too many airplane crashes on television over the years. I've probably done more flying than almost anyone I know -- I have been to 4 continents and made my first international trip as an infant after all -- but that doesn't mean it isn't a traumatic experience for me. Everything about flying, from being in the airport to turbulence in the air, makes me nervous.

So, for people who hate flying and/or are contemplating taking such a long flight for the first time, I'm posting up my own ideas on how to cope with being in an airplane for upwards of 13 hours or more at a time. My total air time was over 44 hours on this trip, so I had plenty of practice and time at implementing these tips ... and they worked for me. This hasn't been my only long distance flight, either -- India was a pretty long trip, too.

This isn't because I think I'm a travel expert or anything else; it's simply to fill some holes and provide ideas for people researching trips online.

Aisle Seating. Let's face it, most long haul flights take place in the evening or well above the cloud cover. While looking out the window can be fun, it wears thin after a few hours, and staring into inky black space or a pile of clouds isn't all that thrilling.
A window seat will leave you feeling cramped, and it's annoying to step over people everytime you need to stretch or use the toilet. The middle seat is just as difficult.
Aisle seating is great for mobility, feels less cramped, and allows you to get up and do things like grab water from the galley.

Entertainment. Quite a few international carriers like Continental and Air New Zealand offer in-seat flight entertainment. Take advantage. Air New Zealand has the best I've come across, with radio stations, television shows and a wide selection of movies.
Also, the Air Show, which is a glorified flight map, is surprisingly compelling to watch. I spent quite a few hours zoning out to that channel, and watching my airplane make its way across the Pacific.

Packing. For a long haul flight, I'd really suggest packing an overnight bag with your carry on luggage. This is an example of what I brought with me:

* water and snacks
* magazines and catch-up reading material
* journal and pen
* digital camera
* spare outfit to change into upon arrival in New Zealand
* makeup, toothbrush, toothpaste, hair brush

Reading. Let me say this now: reading does not work for nervous flyers. I brought two novels with me to read on my trip, and I was too nervous to concentrate on them. I ended up reading a few trashy magazine articles and watching tv instead.
If you're a nervous flyer, don't try to catch up on War and Peace or something. Cosmopolitan may be less intellectual, but it doesn't require thought to process. Sometimes that's a good thing.

Snacks. While Air New Zealand did a great job at providing tasty food, I still felt hungry during parts of my trip. Luckily, I brought along some snacks with me. These proved to be life savers. A bottle of water is also a life saver late at night when stewards and stewardesses stop coming around offering beverages.
However, do not repeat this formula, which I discoveted en route to Auckland: melted M&Ms + upholstery = gooey, sticky mess.

Talk to Passengers. Some of the best information I got wasn't from tour guides, books or the internet; it was from fellow passengers on my flights. Aussie locals were beyond helpful in giving me the scoop on what to see and how to get off the beaten tourist path. A New Zealand couple told me about a festival in Brisbane, which I would never have known about otherwise. Fellow travelers will help you out if you ask.

I do want to say a word about Air New Zealand: I used them for 4 of my 8 flights, and would happily book with them again. Their service is good, the airplane fleet feels newer than most, and they have tasty meals. I've heard good things about the airline from other travelers too.

So, that's my advice and take it for what it may be worth. I'm just trying to fill in some gaps online. Obviously my suggestions are just that, but they work well for me and I suspect they'd be equally helpful for people with similar needs to mine.

Hope all this helps!

Journal Entries: Los Angeles - Auckland

'Distance to Destination: 10, 498km'

Air New Zealand Air Show, Los Angeles - Auckland route

Flight time: 13 hours

Los Angeles International Airport, Terminal 2 August 27, 8:35pm

Waiting to board the plane. Starting to get heavy nerves ... I hate flying. Feel a bit twitchy and anxious. Perhaps 'apprehensive' would be the right word.

About 22 hours and I'll be there. That's less than a day, which is a comforting thought. Then again, it's 22 hours, which seems like a heck of a long time.

I'm flying out of Gate 25 and it's very crowded. People everywhere. Another Air New Zealand flight to Auckland is boarding at the next gate over. That's a relief to me somehow, that I won't be in the only airplane speeding its way to the Southern Hemisphere this evening ...

Seat 39D, Air New Zealand August 28

Flying somewhere over Nukulalufa or some such. I'm also flying close to Taveumi and Nadi, where ever the hell that is. All I know is that I'm somewhere over the Pacific and getting very close now.

Got some poor quality sleep, mostly due to being uncomfortable -- they do not provide a whole lot of leg room in coach class seating. Luckily no one is sitting beside me, so I can stretch out over two seats instead of just one. Aisle seating is essential too. No getting smushed up against an airplane window for 13 hours for me! Easy access to toilets is also pretty essential. You'd be surprised how much you have to pee over such a long flight.

2 hours and 37 minutes to destination #1 in Auckland. Then another lay over, another longish flight and bam! I'm there, in Australia!

... The thought of yet another flight after this one is daunting -- mainly because I'm exhausted -- but it will be nice to finally get there. All this planning and waiting around and hoping for something great, and it will all finally be revealed to me. It's anxiety inducing but also exhilarating at the same time. I could be making a total mistake in coming and spending my savings on this trip. Somehow I doubt it, though ...

Auckland International Airport August 29, 7:?? am

I made it! Flight was (thankfully) uneventful and clocked in at 12.5 hours.

Had to go through security again once I got to New Zealand. They confiscated my toothpaste and deodorant (nicely, and with apologies), but luckily they didn't take my $200 worth of makeup I just bought in Santa Barbara before I left.

1 more flight and I'm there!! Finally! After all this waiting and nerves, my goal is almost in sight. I have all these worries ... will my baggage get checked through, will my friend recognize me at the airport after seven years, how will we get along, how jet lagged am I going to be ...? Lots of stresses, but as my friend Jack pointed out yesterday in California, enjoy the moment. So okay, I'll savor the uncertainty of it all. Who knows how it'll go, but it's in my power to make a wonderful trip for myself and that's all that really matters. I have the capability to make or break situations -- those that are in my control, of course.

The airport is nice here. Bright, full of shops (2 Duty Frees diagonal to each other, gift shops, etc.), lots of families and big windows overlooking the runways. Lots of foreigners, too. Either there are lots of Chinese people here, or else a flight just disembarked from that country.

I was doing my makeup in the bathroom here, and some Asian girls just off the airplane kept looking at me funny. Was I inadvertently being rude? A cultural gaffe on my part? I felt a little bit better after one of the girls brushed her teeth in the public sink. I feel slightly less rude now. At least I wasn't spitting in to the same spot where people wash their hands. I was only applying foundation in a mirror.

Oh, and also, everyone looks healthy here. Not tan, but rosy cheeked and outdoorsy. Kind of like everyone in California, only to a greater degree. Lots of sensible, sportily dressed types. No wonder everyone thinks Americans are fat -- we are in comparison to these people!

I'm hungry but don't have the correct currency to buy anything. Funny feeling ...

Funny sign on a trash can: Please Do Not Spit / Use Toilets.

Gross.

Ok, about to board my flight for BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA ... goal is now in sight!

introduction

21, 404 miles.

That is the distance I have traveled to reach my beginning and end.

A full circle, a round completion, nearly the entire almost full circumference of the globe.

21, 404 air miles, 44 hours and 20 minutes of sitting on an airplane, and all of that for what?

To say I've been to the other side of the world?

To see a kangaroo in the wild, to feel the Queensland sun, to dip my toes in the Pacific Ocean?

To trek in to the bush, to pick a spot on a wild and unknown map and simply go, to experience an all together different and strange place?

To watch dolphins at play? To hold a koala to my chest and smell its scent and cradle its weight? To go camping under the darkest of night skies and worry about getting bitten by a dingo while going for a midnight stroll?

And I guess the answer would be ... yes. Yes, to all of those things and more.

Yes to the kangaroos and Queensland sun and Pacific Ocean.

Yes to the bush treks, the unknown and wild spots on the map, the unfamiliar sensation of a new place.

Yes to the dolphins and dingos and night skies.

Yes, yes, yes. Yes to it all.

21, 404 miles to reach, explore and leave my dream destination.

44 hours and 20 minutes of sitting on an airplane in order to be able to say 'I've been there.'

An almost complete rotation around the globe, simply to pack up and come home again.

This, to me, is really what my trip to Australia has been all about.

Traveling, completions, new beginnings.

21, 404 miles to reach where I started, to the point where it all began.

44 hours and 20 minutes spent en route, time spent simply for the joy of traveling.

This, the time and distance, is my trip to Australia.

And this, words and paragraphs, is my blog about that same country.

This is what Australia has been for me. These are my memories, my photographs, my recollections. This is my journey.