brisbane forest park part I

The lady was middle aged, with neat gray hair and sensible shoes. Equipped with a map, pen and a plethora of brochures, she was clearly a woman used to dealing with hapless tourists.

She doled out advice as she outlined a suggested travel route on my disposable visitor's map. Like most of the Australians I'd run in to during my journey, she was direct and to the point.

"Don't go past overlook 11," she sagely advised. The particular spot in question was then duly circled on the map. "Here." She tapped the pencil against the paper, as if to underscore her point. "There's no petrol after this stop. It's very easy to break down and get stranded up there. You could get yourself in a bit of trouble if you don't have spare petrol."

She paused in her speech, and I took a moment to try and process this information. Okay, I told myself. No petrol, could get stranded. Two important points to keep in mind. Don't get stuck. Could get in to a 'bit' of trouble. Alllllrighty.

After I filed those tidbits of information away, the lady helpfully added another piece of rather vital information. "The road is very twisty, and gets especially bad after overlook 11. I don't recommend it for drivers who aren't used to mountain roads or are driving in large cars."

Another pause followed this statement. When she spoke again, it was if she was commenting on the weather or some other completely mundane aspect of life. "Oh. And there's quite a bit of bush out there. Not many people."

Point taken, lady.

I suppose I should have known that my day at Brisbane Forest Park was going to be quite the adventure when I first got there and stumbled across a sign that noted the presence of brown snakes in the area. There's nothing quite like reading a sign that bluntly states there's a possibility of getting a fatal snake bite while walking in the area. Not exactly the most comforting thing in the world to read.

Winding roads, fatal snake bites, no petrol and zero people aside, Brisbane Forest Park seemed like a relaxing place. From what I read, it was a breathtaking and vast tract of land that flanked the great city of Brisbane. Although only a short drive from the city limits, the forest was a national park, and an important one at that.

The drive from Ipswich to the Brisbane Forest Park itself was a nice one. The road skirts the edge of the city, taking you through an assortment of colorful suburbs. You eventually wind up on a mountain road, and begin a slow and stately climb towards the park entrance, which happens to be located in an idyllic and, appropriately enough, forested setting.

The entrance to the park is home to a parking lot, visitor's building and a series of walking trails. The visitor's building is well equipped with brochures, maps and sprightly middle aged ladies who are used to warning hapless tourists about the perils of Aussie travel. (No petrol, no people, lots of bush, lots of winding road ...)

Having quickly studied the visitor's map, I decided that I needed to go further in to the park. The visitor's center was nice and all, but walking trials advertising the evils of brown snakes were not quite my thing. I wanted something a little more scenic, and perhaps a little further from a parking lot. Plus, the twisting roads on the map looked oddly compelling, and I wanted to see what the scenic overlooks and 'expanses of subtropical rain forest' were all about.

And man, was I in for a surprise.

a word on australian candy

I am rather proud to say that I come from a long line of women with a taste for the sweet and savory things in life. I mean this literally, not in any figurative sense. My grandmother, for example, would infamously go out to dinner in order to have two desserts. She'd simply opt out of the main course and go straight for the good stuff.

Needless to say, this is the sort of behavior that I both admire and emulate.

... and which is probably the reason why I love Australian junk food so much. I mean, not just love, but really, really love. I hate to say it, but candy and snacks in Oz taste so much better. I'll always have a soft spot for my American staples -- Twizzlers, KitKats, Nerds, and Skittles -- but man, I've got to hand it to the Australians. They have edible treats figured out.

My first experience with Aussie junk food came during a trip to the local Woolworth's. In America, Woolworth's was once a junky dime store, but in Australia, it's a run down grocery store chain. Nothing special, except it's where I first discovered the joy of Curly Wurlys.

And oh, dear god. Curly Wurlys. There is nothing better on this Earth.

I bought one at the recommendation of a friend, ate it in about two bites, and then went apeshit and bought a handful more -- which promptly went down my gullet and in to my Curly Wurly bloated stomach. This is the sort of snack that, if discovered by the American masses, would send our obesity rates soaring over the edge. I'm not even kidding. They're that delicious and maddeningly fattening.

A Curly Wurly is simple a braid of caramel covered in chocolate. It sounds so uninspired, yet somehow manages to be ridiculously delicious. I assure you that no trip to Australia is complete without indulging in at least a bagful of these goodies. They're also inexpensive (around 60 cents), and a great way to feed yourself on the road when you're on a tight budget. Maybe not the healthiest choice, but they do give a mild energy boost.

My next major junk food discovery was the rather dismal sounding Burger Rings. I was a little apprehensive before trying a bag, but once I popped one tangy round burgery bite in to my mouth, I couldn't stop. It was a repeat of the Curly Wurly situation. Burger Rings are delicious, folks. You eat one, you'll soon have noshed your way through an entire bag.

You've been forewarned.

The closest American relative to the Burger Ring I can think of is the kind-of-disgusting tasting Funyuns, otherwise lovingly known as 'those faux onion rings'. There's really no comparison, other than the fact both are named after fatty types of food and boggle the mind as a concept. I mean, BURGER RINGS? Seriously? (But yes. Seriously. They are good.)

Then it was on to the ever popular and perennial Aussie favorite, Toobs. This well named snack are tubes of cheesey goodness. Kind of like Cheetos, only better. You can stack them on your finger, pretend they're rings, and then eat them off. It's childlishly amusing to flash your 'bling' around on your hand and then turn around and nibble them off.

The best way to enjoy these treats are while sitting in front of the television. I discovered this fact with a female friend I made in Australia. One evening we decided to have a junk food binge night. It was an excuse for the American (me) to eat "cultural food" and a reason for the Australian (my friend) to eat the fattiest, greasiest junk to be found in Australia.

We made an evening out of our noshing fest. We lined up some back episodes of America's Next Top Model, settled on to her comfy couch in front of the television, and sat back and ate all evening. We didn't even have dinner -- we just ate pure crap. It was wonderful. By the end of the evening we were surrounded by a sea of wrappers and empty bags that smelled faintly fart-like. (Burger Rings do not make an appetizing smell, despite their delicious taste.)

Of course, I didn't stop at just Toobs, Burger Rings, or Curly Wurlys. Other shout-outs I'd like to give to delicious Aussie candy:

Cherry Ripes (cherry + chocolate), Flakes, Picnic Bars (mmmm!), and my favorite, the Cadbury Turkish Delight. Also, the one treat I didn't try but that had the best name of anything I've ever seen: Golden Gaytime Ice Cream.

Just remember, it's not good unless it's golden AND gaytime. Or a Curly Wurly.

photos: spring bluff and road back to ipswich

Spring Bluff

the lush green setting of Spring Bluff

old machinery at Spring Bluff

Murphy's Creek (blink and you'll miss it)

rainbow over highway

on the road back to Ipswich

photos: toowomba

flowers at Picnic Point

Great Dividing Range

Table Mountain

downtown Toowomba

spring bluff

18 kilometers in to the middle of nowhere, there lies a beautiful sight. Before reaching this lovely place, however, you must travel through dusty bush and the impossibly tiny town of Murphy's Creek -- which is notable for its one and only feature, a small railway station. (And by small, I mean a boxy rectangle of a building and a platform. That's it.)

There isn't a lot of hoopla surrounding this lush, hidden spot. One or two signs advertise a tourist attraction '18 km' off the main roadway. Nothing, however, gives a hint as to what it may be or even what to expect. The signs simply state, 'Spring Bluff, 18 km.'

The 18 km off the main road is, by the way, a long one. You travel through sparsely populated countryside, past a couple of languishing cows, and along eucalyptus and gum tree lined roads. It's very pretty in and of itself, in that empty Queensland way. It might even remind you of what the American wild west may have looked like, before gold mining and Billy the Kid took over.

After a seemingly long and unending drive, you reach one little sign for a turn off up a gravel road that simply says 'Spring Bluff.' The driveway doesn't look very promising, especially since the remote location feels all the more pronounced once you leave asphalt.

However, I can assure you that this drive up the gravel, through the bush and alongside cow pastures is very worth it. Why? Because Spring Bluff is like a hallucination, a dream. It is a lush green spot in the middle of dry bush. In other words, it is a veritable oasis.

Spring Bluff, a 130 year old railway station, rests on the main line that runs between Ipswich (outside of Brisbane) and Toowomba (yes, that Toowomba.) In 1914, Queensland Rail began a gardening competition that encouraged railway workers to make their stations pretty. Although Spring Bluff feel in to desrepair in the 1960's, it has since returned to its preferred, lovely state. The result? A beautified and flower happy spot in the middle of the bush.

There are flowers galore and a bamboo grove. There are prettily arranged boulders and a cascading waterfall. The grass is greener than almost anywhere else in summertime Queensland. The station platform itself is draped in baskets of hanging blooms. Everywhere you look, there is life, color and floral arrangements galore. If you're allergic to pollen, this is not the place to be. If, on the other hand, you are a plant buff, you've come to the right spot.

Train buffs may enjoy walking through the old station building and platform. Old equipment lies out in the open, allowing visitors to touch and actually feel history. A train car from a previous era is crouched down in to the earth next door, where you can run your hands along the wooden sides and peer in the dusky windows.

A visitor's log is of special interest. It seems that this remote little spot attracts quite a few visitors. Australians were especially well represented on the list. Americans? Not so much. I felt very cheerful when I was able to sign my name and country on the visitor's log.

I would highly recommend a stop off at the lovely Spring Bluff. The drive alone is worth it, as it goes through some interesting rural areas. It's a snapshot of Australian life that is worth seeing. The gardens of Spring Bluff are also worth a stroll.

toowomba

Toowomba is one of those deliciously named Queensland towns that I couldn't help but get giddy over the prospect of visiting. While my home state in America has practical, staid city names like 'York' and 'Factoryville', Queensland seems to have a plethora of towns with names like Woodenbong and ... well, Toowomba. The sheer amount of vowels in these town names was reason enough to pay my respects through a visit.

I was mildly, and cheerfully, taken with Toowomba. I rather aptly described the town in my journal as "nothing spectacular but quaint." Which is true. Toowomba itself isn't stunning, but it has a charming look to it that you don't get in many other Queensland towns.

To begin with, Toowomba is located in the mountains. The drive in to town is a bit of an ordeal, as the main road is set at a ten percent incline up the side of a mountain. Signs are everywhere, promising danger and doling out warnings to overly optimistic drivers. The first time I came in to town, which was in a vehicle that was having mechanical problems, I ended up stranded in an over heated car for forty five minutes. Not fun.

Once in town, however, the going gets a lot easier. Toowomba is the epitome of pleasant. It has pleasant homes with lush gardens, pleasant and cool mountain air, pleasant people with cheerful smiles, and a very pleasant downtown full of some "old school" buildings that are, well, pleasant.

The gardens of Toowomba are one of the town's major draws. It seems that for many parts of Queensland, landscaping isn't taken that seriously. In Toowomba, however, it has become a form of high art. Even a brisk drive through town will reveal a plethora of beautiful yards full of blooming bushes and colorful flower beds. Even the air is a little sweeter and cleaner here than in many parts of coastal Queensland.

A focal point in Toowomba is the well named Picnic Point. A medium sized park with walking trails, a cafe, picnic grounds, gardens, and incredible old gum trees, Picnic Point is the perfect spot to catch some spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. In fact, the park provides an incredible look at the Great Dividing Range and Tabletop Mountain.

I was utterly charmed by Picnic Point. I wandered the trails, which looped joyously through groves of eucalyptus, and spied on some lovely bird life. I measured myself against one old gum tree, and stepped away realizing just how short I truly am. I even had a picnic here, and happily ate cream puffs and a sandwich under the blazing heat of the Queensland sun.

Although I didn't walk around downtown Toowomba, I did get a short drive through of the area. There were some old buildings that had an antiquated charm, and it seemed like the area was a bustling one. Nothing really drew my attention as being a must-see, but it was still fun to poke my head out the car window and snap some photos.

Toowomba is also beloved by many Brisbane/Gold Coast locals. I heard the name repeatedly through out my trip, and many times it was spoken about with a sort of reverence one gives to a doddering old grandmother. Not exactly a jumpin' party spot, but certainly a lovely place for an afternoon picnic.

driving in queensland

Distance takes on an all together new meaning when driving around the roads of Queensland. Maps are deceiving; two points could look like they're next to each other, but an actual drive will prove them to be anything but close together. What seems like it should be a five minute trip turns in to a rather epic journey that spans three-quarters of an hour.

This seems to be the case no matter what. In this respect, Queensland is for all the world like California, a state which should be nicknamed something like 'Land of The Sprawl.' According to the fine citizens of California (and Queensland, for that matter), things should be built far apart rather than close together. In other words, make everyone drive stupidly long distances, for the hell of it! Why put a shopping center down the road when you can make it really down the road?

In the defense of Australia's sunny state, part of the reason everything is so spread out is that the bush is very much part of the landscape. 'Bush', in Australian slang, refers to anything that hasn't been tamed by the hands of humankind. Any wild, woolly, overgrown, or sparsely populated area is referred to as the bush. And make no mistake about it -- the bush is ever present in Queensland. People don't seem to encroach on the bush so much as the bush creeps up on people. It's kind of the paradoxical inverse of most places.

A fine example of this is the lovely city of Brisbane. A bustling metropolis with a population of over a million people, a skyline studded with sky scrapers and a rowdy and fun reputation, Brisbane seems completely urban. There's a wonderful transit system, sprawling suburbs, and enough gawking tourists to clog up pedestrian traffic during the summer months.

However, take about a ten minute drive out of the city in certain directions, and you'll see plenty of eucalyptus forests and kangaroo crossing signs ... but not too many houses. Park rangers at the Brisbane National Forest, which is on the outskirts of the city limits, actually warn visitors to drive carefully on the road ahead, and not to proceed without sufficient fuel. Why? Oh, because it's so remote, there's no petrol stations for over an hour and a half. And this is within a national park that is on the edge of a major city!

The day Joe and I went driving in the Brisbane National Forest, we were mildly amused to learn that there were exactly two spots on the road where we could grab some lunch. Naturally, one of these places was closed, which left one quaint place as our only choice. This little cafe was located in a tiny (albeit adorable) town of about one hundred people.

Amazing, the bush. Simply amazing. And everywhere.

Another reason everything is so spread out is that Australia is so damn big. I mean, yeah, we all known from geography lessons that it's the world's sixth largest nation, yadda yadda. However, I don't think a tourist can appreciate this fact until they're actually in the country. Then it starts to dawn on you. Oh wait, this place is huge and rather sparsely populated. A sign in western Queensland made this point clear to me when I read that the next town wasn't for 200 kilometers.

So, we have the bush and the sheer size of the place. That's two factors in explaining why every stop at the grocery store seems to morph into an epic road trip. But then there's a third reason why everything takes forever to get to.

Queensland has a system where there's a main town for a given area, and then lots of little towns associated with it. These little towns may be thirty kilometers away, but no matter. They are somehow linked to the one major town in a given area. Of course, lots of these little towns lack what the main town has, namely access to the railway system, a decent grocery store, and commercial center. So, if you want to buy 'nice' groceries or catch a ride on the train, you're going to have to truck in a fairly long distance to get to the one major town in the region that has these exciting features.

Luckily, driving in Queensland is generally a scenic experience. There are some stunning landscapes. A lot of the region's beautiful scenery is relatively untouched by people, as well, making it an even lovelier experience. You can drive for kilometers and not see a single house in many places. (Cows, maybe, or pasture land, but not houses.) It's a refreshing -- and freeing -- feeling.